Paris FW – Jacquemus Womenswear AW 2015

An original atmosphere: it’s in a Parisian apartment undergoing construction that the autumn/winter 2015/16 Jacquemus collection was revealed. An original atmosphere: it’s in a Parisian apartment undergoing construction that the autumn/winter 2015/16 Jacquemus collection was revealed. From the very first looks the designer Simon Porte Jacquemus imposes his personal vision on fashion that always relates to his childhood. The silhouette is constructed by a patchwork of materials. His obsession of circles is found with the huge eyelets which act as ties. The materials inspire new volumes and new shapes. No ornamentation, the simplicity is the focus. The Jacquemus woman is growing up and embraces her nudity, even if she is hidden behind a mask.

Simon Porte Jacquemus expressed “In responding to the clothes I wanted a huge patchwork like a child’s piece of homework, the kind of work that we do when we’re at primary school, these collages, these stapled pieces of paper, I wanted this naivety, but it’s true that I talk about it differently. Each time I talk about it in a more pop way perhaps, and that is a more primitive naivety and a return to the roots, the earth…There is a very earthy thing as well, and nature because finally I’m talking a lot about nature and simplicity, but I have never developed it into a collection, even through the colours it’s true that these weren’t the colours which I use, in any case, in these latest collections. It was all done on me, I cut the circles, I put them by the feet to make a skirt, I took the clothes, the halves of shirts, of jackets and I put them on myself, I loved working on this collection, I would have done a thousand patchwork tops like that, it was so good. It’s true that before I had quite flat silhouettes and it’s true there is an obsession at the moment of the body, maybe a little bit more than before. It’s true that before I was doing squares or circles on the body, but now I’ve returned a bit to the body, I’m discovering other universes…I think that my universe is growing with me, and it’s quite beautiful.”