Photos courtesy of brand

Orderly disorder. Geometry as rhythm, pattern, movement. Rodolfo Paglialunga works around an idea of broken precision for the Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2015 collection. Focusing on timeless staples, he creates an open esthetic code that can be further, indi- vidually interpreted.

The silhouette is vertical and tall, with a gentle slouch. Outfits come together jaggedly, with remarkable nonchalance.Instinct guides effortless gestures. The fur coat is casually thrown over satin slacks and a pullover. Tailored jackets draw a lean long line which ends in cropped trouser-skirts. The liquid belted coats have the sophisticated flow of a robe. Tunics are worn over pants.
The neck is always covered by cut-out turtleneck collars, highlighted by a ruche, creating a grammar of shy seduction.

The constant tension of straight lines and diagonals is visually engaging. It generates movement: double-breasted closures, out- sized mannish checks that draw lines and grids on tailored pieces. Geometries run rhythmically, further breaking the apparent order: bold stripes and lines on tops and knitted pieces, taped deconstructed checks on coats.

Brushed carpet textures and knit robe de chambre cardigans with double-face intarsia provide the displaced warmth of ele- gant domesticity. Materials are firm and precious: double-faced cashmere, textured wools, satin. The color palette is proper, with summery rup- tures: tones of blue, dark green, white and black are interspersed with dashes of pale pink, yellow, turquoise.

Accessories strengthen the idea of complex precision. Stack-heel lace-ups and boots are constructivist sums of suede, leath- er, brushed calf. Geometric patterns swarm on boots, matching the outfits. Shoulder bags are functional, the neatness of the design highlighted by bold lining contrasts.