Photos courtesy of brand
For Fall 2015, Zac Posen presents a modern vision of the delicately sculptural, meticulously constructed work of the house heritage. Posen’s tactile ambitions are presented in silhouettes that combine novel fabrications and textures to generate a sense of of‐the‐ moment sexual frisson. Says Zac Posen, “In this collection, I sought ways to shock classical silhouettes into the present day by adopting an ‘opposites attract’ philosophy. My muses were as disparate as Grace Kelly and Chaka Khan. I wanted to retain the elegance of proportions and mood of romanticism, while incorporating a fresh sense of movement and light.”
For day, Posen continues to highlight rigorous construction and tailoring techniques living with a stylized sense of ease and motion. A three‐quarter‐length bugle‐bead dress recalls a 1940s milieu balanced with a sculpted waist to highlight a woman’s frame. A mink anatomical jacket hints at deconstruction — deep crêpe accents nearly reveal the garment’s original pattern — but reflect a polished femininity when paired with a below‐ the‐knee bonded crêpe skirt. The palette for day is predominately bold and sensual — oxblood, burgundy, and plum figure prominently — but also incorporates rich neutrals. Icy green crêpe, bonded with Prince of Wales Jacquard, is cut into both menswear‐inspired separates and ultra‐feminine sheaths; a plum dress is constructed via the interplay of soft jersey pleats and ton‐sur‐ton bonded crêpe structure of the frame.
Luxurious touches like a mink belted trench, beaded cashmere cardigans, and a double‐ faced cashmere floor‐length Voyage coat bring a touch of Hitchcockian glamour to the boardroom‐ready looks.
For evening, Grecian pleats are electrified with metallic, engineered beading and revealing anatomical cutouts. A saffron‐yellow mink top is balanced with a delicately draped, floor‐ length skirt; a lush emerald gown is rendered in a velvet top swooshing to the floor in an emotional jersey skirt that comes to life with dynamic movement. Necklines feature both wide and plunging cuts to elegantly highlight the décolletage, while unexpected, slit‐like cutouts appear throughout.
In the collection’s piece de resistance, a full‐volumed paillette flocking taffeta ball gown, Posen makes the case for the enduring embrace of no‐holds‐barred glamour.