Photo courtesy of brand
Vivienne Tam presented her Autumn / Winter 2015 collection on February 16, 2015 at 7:00pm in the Theatre at Lincoln Center. The collection is an urban romantic take on chinoiserie — the European concept of China, sparked by its imagination of the mystical and exotic Far East. This prevailing aesthetic characterized by intricate designs that blend ornate European design with rich imagery from the East — lush renderings of birds, pagodas, boats, bamboos, bridges and more — was iterated in mirrors, furniture, wall coverings, draperies and decorative art objects that dominated interior and fashion design.
Pearlescent paillettes under sheer tulle and printed silk shifts with sequined and beaded accents are reminiscent of cloisonné textures while muted plaids are overlaid with black lace. Baroque matte silver and foiled gold lace derived from Chinese Chippendale gilt mirrors are appliquéd onto high-necked, Victorian- inspired silk blouses that frame the face. Wool jersey and techno-fabric patchwork dresses with graphic body frame overlays and structured trapunto wool pea-coats round out the line-up.
The collection is rendered in both natural and hi-tech materials, such as melton and boiled wools, fine silks and printed multi-textured techno-mesh layered with hand-crafted embroideries, lace and laser-cut appliqués. It features exaggerated silhouettes — gathered sleeves, flared A-line skirts and dresses with nipped in waists as well as quilted skirts and quilted cropped jackets that sometimes are paired with long or cropped menswear-inspired trousers — expressed in warm ivories, camels, grays, dusty pinks, imperial blues, varying depths of red, and burnished metallics.