Matthew Miller SS 15 at London Collections: Men

Matthew Miller SS15 at London Collections Men in London Collections: Men SS15

Anti War, Anti Social, Anti You.

For Spring Summer 2015, Matthew Miller investigates what life looks like for soldiers returning home from war. What happens to the post-­conflict warrior as he’s thrown back into a peaceful society having been forced to fight for his life and to take that of others.

He’s a trained killer and a skilful mercenary, but now there’s no enemy left to fight.

For inspiration Miller looked at the ‘demob’ suits that soldiers, especially after the Second World War, were given as they demobilized, exited the army and entered civilian life. Mass-­produced and often in ‘one size fits all’ cuts, the suits were double-­ breasted and with wide trouser legs. The colour palette was focused on nondescript navy blue or chalk grey pinstripes.

For his Introversion collection, Miller has modernized the ‘demob’ suit silhouette by adding oversized pleats to the back of the jackets and re-­attaching shredded fabric in a death rose embroidery. As such a new mesh is created, a social armour that protects the wearer from the normality of everyday life. Though the suit’s social armour looks though and resilient it’s made from soft and subtle materials; the arm pads are constructed from silk satin and grosgrain tape complete the body armour straps, all referencing modern day tailoring materials and techniques.

“The collection is made in a plethora of blue hues and mashed-­up pinstripes that make the models look like walking battle ships, especially when wearing the graphic pinstripe camouflage,? Miller explains.

Oversized Velcro grosgrain straps with the words ‘Anti’, ‘War’, ‘Social’ and ‘You’ can be moved around the garments, allowing the wearer to construct different sentences, different descents into chaos. The SS15 collection sees Miller collaborate with G-­SHOCK on watches and Italian footwear brand Diemme on slip on shoes made out of silk satin cloth.

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