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David Koma has always been drawn to refined, feminine, sensual woman but for Autumn/ Winter ’15, she is distinctly carefree and confident. Signature strictly tailored silhouettes get a new outlook with the introduction of more separates, as well as his classic dresses. The designer explores the shapes and sensibilities of the Sixties and Seventies.
For Autumn/Winter 2015/16, his inspiration comes from the 60s and 70s. “I really love the 60s in general, it’s one of my favourite eras. So I wanted to reference it but in a young fresh way so there were a lot of elements that were twisted from that period, but put together with much more body conscious, sculptural pieces which gave a new angle to it. There was another challenge, to combine the things but not over-do it and not make it too heavy. I love black and I love leather, these are very important to me, and so there was this aspect of doing that but injecting new materials, heavily embroidered, lace, the sparkling embroidery at the end, and then mixing it all together to give light and freshness,” stated David Koma
His tops and dresses feature high necked collars and frills at the end of sleeves, skirts are elusive, jackets ultra short with vinyl belts. The curves of the body are always highlighted through the slim-fitting style. In striking black comes a series of buckled wool dresses, all high necklines – and even higher hemlines. Macramé knots inspired by the Op Art textile designer Barbara Brown work to reveal and conceal flashes of skin: cyclical patent leather defines tiny waists; and ruffles at the wrist and thigh are playful. Bright orange and bold indigo are offset with classic nude tones to bring the “youthquake” couturiers André Courrèges and Pierre Cardin to mind, and other of the decade’s influences are seen in the heavily embellished Perspex and crystal finale dresses.
Black and camel dominate even if blue and orange do make an appearance. The creator plays with woven ropes and knots to give depth and volume to long line outfits. One can’t forget the crystals embroidered on the final sheath dresses to glitter at parties.
Malone Souliers x David Koma’s first collaboration sees sharp stilettos and space-cadet-style sandals take to the catwalk.