THIS SEASON, EMILIO DE LA MORENA DEVELOPS HIS AESTHETIC IN A DIRECTION THAT IS IN TURN MORE REFINED AND MORE PLAYFUL. HE DRAWS INSPIRATION FROM HIS SPANISH HERITAGE AND HIS LIFE IN LONDON. THE EXUBERANCE AND FLAMBOYANCE OF VALENCIA AND PICASSO’S COLOUR-COMBINING IN HIS LATE-CUBIST PORTRAITS MEET THE SHARP TAILORING OF LONDON’S UNSUNG COUTURIERS OF THE EIGHTIES AND ETHEREALNESS OF THE NEW ROMANTICS TO PRODUCE A COLLECTION OF EVENINGWEAR THAT IS ELEGANT BUT ALSO ELECTRIC.

SILHOUETTES ARE FIGURE-HUGGING AND HIP-LENGTH OR FLOAT TO THE GROUND. EVENING GOWNS ARE DRAPED ABOUT THE BODY. PRECISELY TAILORED JACKETS ARE CUT CLOSE, NIPPED AT THE WAIST AND HAVE EXAGGERATED PEPLUMS THAT ACCENTUATE THE SHAPE OF THE BODY. THEY ARE PAIRED WITH FITTED FLARED TROUSERS. BODYCON COCKTAIL DRESSES HAVE A SIMILARLY ASSURED SEXUALITY AND FEATURE CUTOUTS AROUND THE TORSO AND LACE PANELS.

SPANISH FABRICS AND TECHNIQUES ABOUND. FLOUNCES IN BONDED SILK ACCENTUATE THE BODY AND SUITING IS IN A RICH STRIPED JACQUARD MILLED FOR THE BRAND IN VALENCIA.

LACE IS A DOMINANT TEXTURE. IT IS LAYERED WITH MORE LACE, OVER POLKA DOT, METALLIC JACQUARD AS WELL AS BEING USED AGAINST THE SKIN IN THE FORM OF SLEEVES AND PANELS, PLAYING WITH THE WAYS IN WHICH GARMENTS REVEAL AND OBSCURE. GAZAR, TAFFETA AND TULLE CREATE STRUCTURE AND BODY. OUTERWEAR IS IN MOHAIR.

AS ALWAYS, COLOUR AND COLOUR-COMBINING IS KEY. PETROL, CERISE, FUCHSIA AND EMERALD PROVIDE STRONG TONES AND PASTELS IN PINK AND MINT STRIKE SOFTER NOTES. LACE WHERE USED IS OFTEN MONOCHROME.

ACCESSORIES INCLUDE ELBOW LENGTH GLOVES BY AGNELLE.