Kenzo- Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Collection in Paris (with interview)
Paris lies at the heart of the Kenzo collection, designed by Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. Kenzo celebrates Paris… in the rain. And the show that was intended to be outside is, however, a little less spectacular, but not so much… The models cross the Alexandre III bridge and go down the stairs to reach the length of the quay where the show takes place. In this latest collection Kenzo’s American artistic directors based in New York, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, illustrate Paris through their eyes, such as the Eiffel Tower, the river boats, etc. The new silhouette is dynamic, elegant trousers worn with fluid and loose pea jackets and parkas, making a reference to those Parisians who drive scooters, as do the biker cropped pants and shorts. Embroideries and photos of famous monuments appear on the back of a jacket, on a sweatshirt, or on overalls. The accessories (graphics bags and supersonic glasses) with futuristic characteristics, making you think of Cardin or Courrèges, will undoubtedly sell like hotcakes. The pastel palette of colours is an ode to macaroons which are much celebrated in the capital… At Kenzo, the continuously original ideas and good vibes brought by both designers are perfectly conveyed through this wardrobe. Interview: Humberto Leon : Everything that I love about Paris and about discovering Paris, and I think I didn’t want to be shy about everything, you know a lot of people say ‘oh you’re going to go to the Eiffel tower and you’re going to go take the boat trip,’ I love all that stuff, so I really wanted to have all of this collection dedicated to all the things I love about Paris. A lot of it was about how I work every day with French men and how there are a lot of needs, you know, like the business man needs the parka that you can wear with your suit so that you can get on your scooter and I wanted to take all that into consideration, so this is my homage to the Parisian men, and also the tourists that come and visit. What’s interesting is one of the things that I really wanted to think about is that back then, a lot of people were thinking about what the future of fashion is, and I almost wanted to go a little bit into what is the future of fashion now, what is it in ten years, what is it in fifteen years, so a lot of the shapes talk to that modernity, of what is future.