Dries Van Noten – Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 Collection in Paris (with itw)
The sensual dancers envisioned by Dries Van NotenThe new man by Dries Van Noten is more naked and sensual than in other seasons, and this suits him rather well. The reason: the designer was inspired by dancers, from Noureev to the Rosa Company. The guys on the podium are therefore dressed in long robes and jogging bottoms. The leotards become braces worn over open shirts. The all embroidered waistcoats , based on costumes, transform into harnesses which strap the coats and change their main allure. The T-shirts are supple asare the long tank top which can be superposed. Even the suits become fluid, making you think of dancers during an evening party or receiving guests in their flat. The multiple references are sprinkled throughout the entire collection. Even though the main inspiration is ever present, he still manages to bring out something new, emotional, and of course, well thought out and made by Dries Van Noten, who is certainly going to give men new desires. interview : Dries Van Noten : I needed to change the atmosphere a bit, to change the attitude, to make something that was more sensual, to show a bit more skin. Moreover this collection was based on dance, that is to say Rudolf Nureyev, Anne Teresa de Keersmaeker, Rosas Dance Company, so lots of elements that allude to this universe, with some drawings of dancers by Richard Haines, with the ‘R’ of Rudolf Nureyev and Rudolf Valentino, so lots of little hints in the collection. The waistcoats insinuate historical or folk-lore theatre costumes, but still thinking about dance, so we made all of them with elastic to maintain once again the clothes which are very supple. It is about what happens after the dance class, the after-show, so I also wanted to add some luxury into this collection, thinking of Nureyev pictures, seeing him in his flat wearing his dressing gown or his cardigan sweater.